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Niger 2002 - illustrated report
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At a spot where the otherwise reliable tactical pilotage chart shows only plain desert we discover a ridge that spreads over a length of a kilometer and almost 180 ft high overlooking a prehistoric lake depression.
We can determine two periods. An older one with a rotund type grave mount and a younger with oval shaped mounts. Some of the larger constructions show marks of ancient tomb raiding. A couple of depressions close to the mounts can be interpreted as collapsed funnels. Single potsherds in the excavation point out that the activities were at least in some cases succesful.

Lateron we learn that the flat sandstone discs the burial hills are constructed with stem from a borrow source about 40 miles further south. Its evident that the ancient erectors performed a logistic masterpiece with this site. A work that can not be imagined without the knowledge of the wheel.

From Herodotus, the Greek historian, we know that only the legendary Garamants come into consideration as originators of such efforts. The reign of the Garamants of whom Herodotus reports as "people of mammoth size who settled the oases of the Great Sand Sea" began at around 1,000 B.C. Superior in technolgy and organization the antecessors of todays Touareg pursued the Ethopian Troglodytes on chariots whenever they appeared in the open desert. It is very likely that the Troglodytes of whom Herodotus referst to as inhabitans of the Ennedi and Tibesti Mountains, were the last survivors of the aboriginal neolithic population of the Libyan deserts.

 

Tuareg from the Kel Tedele tribe wandering in the Air
In late afternoon after a brief resupply stop in Arlit we reach Tamart Neblish, the "Beard of Satan". At its flank we meet a young Targi girl who guides us to the camp of her mother. She squats in the shaddow of her tent, jaded but happy, because she gave birth to a child this morning. Naked and with swollen eyelids the newborn rests in the sand. The mother turns it like a loaf of bread for us to see that it is a boy. Since the men decamped tree weeks ago to search for their camels she and her three daughters lived alone from the milk of a single goat that is tied to a nearby rod.

 

Al Samum, as the Arabs call the dry Northeastern, keeps us from entering the desert. In the free open visibility is reduced to a few feet under these conditions
Through winding ravines, once abraded out of the solid granite bedrock by the pebble transporting streams, we move on into the inner of the volcanic mountain. Prehistoric engravings overhanging our nightcamp open a view at life in this valley 5,000 years ago. The glow of our fire sheds light on herdsmen, grazing cattle and a giant cat of prey tensed like a bow.

Its been three years ago, Elkontchi tells us, that a hunting leopard sneaked into the valley of his clan and seized three goats and a sheep. The attacks increased and his father took off to pursue the predator on its track up into the mountains. At the end of the fourth day he faced up with the animal in a bottleneck and killed it after a brief fight. My question, this must have been not an easy task since the old school muzzle loaders his folks carry around don't seem to be an adaequate weapon for such a challenge, outrages him visibly. "You may think the Kel Tedele had forgotten how their forefathers went hunting?" With spear and dagger his father had killed the cheetah, not else!

I contemplate if I not put such valor past Elkontchi, who, due to the hyenas, rather prefers to sleep in the car at night.

 

The white Marble cliffs east of Taghmert
Early next morning we pass Tehmet the "Gate of the Ténéré". Cold turkey the scenery changes. From the east the Great Sand Sea breaks at the grim cliffs. The plain doesn't seem to have an ulterior end. Wind borne sand whos way is blocked here, formes gigantic sickle dunes, and the fierce storm blows the fine grained sand in long ocher waves over their crests.


www.niger-meteorite-recon.de
Niger 2002 - illustrated report
go to page: 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | Team | Area Map


 




Printed in Meteorite
Nov. 2004






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